Part 41 (1/2)

DIRECTIONS AND INFORMATION FOR THE TOURIST.

Windermere.--Ambleside.--Coniston.--Ulpha Kirk.--Road from Ambleside to Keswick.--Grasmere.--The Vale of Keswick.--b.u.t.termere and Crummock.--Lowes-water.--Wastdale.--Ullswater, with its tributary Streams.--Haweswater, &c.

DESCRIPTION OF THE SCENERY OF THE LAKES.

SECTION FIRST.

VIEW OR THE COUNTRY AS FORMED BY NATURE.

Vales diverging from a common Centre.--Effect of Light and Shadow as dependant upon the Position of the Vales.--Mountains,--their Substance,--Surfaces,--and Colours.--Winter Colouring.--The Vales,--Lakes,--Islands,--Tarns,--Woods,--Rivers,--Climate,--Night....

p. 235

SECTION SECOND.

ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY AS AFFECTED BY ITS INHABITANTS.

Retrospect.--Primitive Aspect.--Roman and British Antiquities.--Feudal Tenantry,--their Habitations and Enclosures--Tenantry reduced in Number by the Union of the Two Crowns.--State of Society after that Event.--Cottages,--Bridges,--Places of Wors.h.i.+p,--Parks and Mansions.--General Picture of Society.... 256

SECTION THIRD.

CHANGES, AND RULES OF TASTE FOR PREVENTING THEIR BAD EFFECTS.

Tourists.--New Settlers.--The Country disfigured.--Causes of false Taste in Grounds and Buildings.--Ancient Models recommended.--Houses.--Colouring of Buildings.--Grounds and Plantations.--The Larch.--Planting.--Further Changes Probable.--Conclusion.... 269

MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS.

Time for visiting the Country.--Order in which Objects should be approached.--Views from the Heights.--Comparisons, how injurious.--Alpine Scenes compared with c.u.mbrian, &c.--Phenomena.--Comparative Estimate.... 287

EXCURSIONS

TO THE TOP OF SCAWFELL AND ON THE BANKS OF ULLSWATER, p. 302.

ODE.

THE Pa.s.s OF KIRKSTONE, p. 314.

ITINERARY,

p. 316.

DIRECTIONS AND INFORMATION FOR THE TOURIST.

In preparing this Manual, it was the Author's princ.i.p.al wish to furnish a Guide or Companion for the _Minds_ of Persons of taste, and feeling for Landscape, who might be inclined to explore the District of the Lakes with that degree of attention to which its beauty may fairly lay claim. For the more sure attainment, however, of this primary object, he will begin by undertaking the humble and tedious task of supplying the Tourist with directions how to approach the several scenes in their best, or most convenient, order. But first, supposing the approach to be made from the south, and through Yorks.h.i.+re, there are certain interesting spots which may be confidently recommended to his notice, if time can be spared before entering upon the Lake District; and the route may be changed in returning.

There are three approaches to the Lakes through Yorks.h.i.+re; the least adviseable is the great north road by Catterick and Greta Bridge, and onwards to Penrith. The Traveller, however, taking this route, might halt at Greta Bridge, and be well recompenced if he can afford to give an hour or two to the banks of the Greta, and of the Tees, at Rokeby.

Barnard Castle also, about two miles up the Tees, is a striking object, and the main North Road might be rejoined at Bowes. Every one has heard of the great Fall of the Tees above Middleham, interesting for its grandeur, as the avenue of rocks that leads to it, is to the geologist.

But this place lies so far out of the way as scarcely to be within the compa.s.s of our notice. It might, however, be visited by a Traveller on foot, or on horseback, who could rejoin the main road upon Stanemoor.

The second road leads through a more interesting tract of country, beginning at Ripon, from which place see Fountain's Abbey, and thence by Hackfall, and Masham, to Jervaux Abbey, and up the vale of Wensley; turning aside before Askrigg is reached, to see Aysgarth-force, upon the Ure; and again, near Hawes, to Hardraw Scar, of which, with its waterfall, Turner has a fine drawing. Thence over the fells to Sedbergh, and Kendal.