Part 9 (1/2)
Cuc.u.mbers a la Poulette
Want to know one way to make cuc.u.mbers delicious? Cover them with b.u.t.ter and sugar. Any guest visiting Downton with a sweet tooth would eat these vegetables with gusto while the silent staff would look eagerly on, hoping for leftovers.
YIELDS 4 SERVINGS.
4 large cuc.u.mbers, sliced 4 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour 112 cups low-sodium chicken broth 2 teaspoons kosher salt 12 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon sugar 2 large egg yolks, beaten 1 tablespoon fresh parsley, chopped Place cuc.u.mbers in a large pot and cover with water. Let soak for 1 hour, then drain and let dry on cloth.
Heat b.u.t.ter in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add cuc.u.mbers and fry over moderate heat, without browning, for 5 minutes. Lower heat, then add flour, stirring. When thoroughly mixed, add broth and simmer gently for 25 minutes. Stir in salt, pepper, and sugar.
Drawing the pan to one side, add beaten egg yolks and parsley, beating thoroughly. Remove from heat.
Suggested Pairings This would be an excellent accompaniment to Mrs. Patmore's Dropped Roasted Chicken (see Chapter 5), Cla.s.sic Beef Wellington (see Chapter 4), or even Roasted Veal Chops with Rosemary-Basil b.u.t.ter (see Chapter 5).
Baked and b.u.t.tery Balsamic Asparagus with Sea Salt
Likely served at Downton Abbey as part of the vegetable course, a version of this dish was served in the first-cla.s.s cabins of the t.i.tanic, whose sinking changed the lives of everyone at Downton Abbey. It's likely that the sea salt used in this recipe would have had everyone thinking of their loved ones lost at sea.
YIELDS 4 SERVINGS.
1 bunch fresh asparagus, trimmed Extra-virgin olive oil Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 14 cup unsalted b.u.t.ter 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar 112 teaspoons soy sauce Preheat oven to 400F.
Lightly oil a baking sheet with olive oil. Place asparagus on greased baking sheet, then season heavily with salt and pepper.
Bake asparagus for 1015 minutes or until tender.
Melt and brown b.u.t.ter in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Remove from heat, then stir in balsamic vinegar and soy sauce. Pour over baked asparagus and serve.
Etiquette Lessons While it is common in America for the host to take the first bite of food, a tradition likely pa.s.sed on from medieval times to prove that the food is not poisoned, most leaders of etiquette - especially those frequenting Downton Abbey - would be horrified at such an act of rudeness. Instead, the guest of honor should be served - and should eat - first.
Mrs. Patmore's Easy Roasted Parsnips
If Mrs. Patmore wanted to take a day off, or at least give herself an easier evening, she could simply whip up these relatively effortless roasted parsnips as one of the vegetable offerings. They're so delicious that no one would know that she needed an easy dinner service.
YIELDS 4 SERVINGS.
5 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon lemon juice Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 2 pounds parsnips, peeled and cut into 2-inch slices 13 cup vegetable stock 12 cup unsalted b.u.t.ter, softened 4 teaspoons drained horseradish 1 tablespoon light brown sugar 2 teaspoons maple syrup 1 tablespoon finely chopped flat-leaf parsley 1 teaspoon fresh rosemary, chopped 1 teaspoon fresh thyme, chopped Preheat oven to 400F. Whisk together olive oil, lemon juice, salt, and pepper in a medium bowl. In a large yet shallow roasting pan, toss the parsnips with lemon and olive oil mixture. Add the broth, cover with aluminum foil, and roast, stirring once or twice, until the parsnips are tender and the stock has evaporated or been absorbed, about 2045 minutes. Check often to avoid mus.h.i.+ness.
Combine the softened b.u.t.ter with the horseradish, brown sugar, maple syrup, parsley, rosemary, and thyme. Toss the warm parsnips with the herb b.u.t.ter and serve.
Suggested Pairings Parsnips are a root vegetable closely related to the carrot. Though sweeter in taste, they can be cooked and used much like carrots. Thus, you could pair this dish with any entree in need of a carrot-like side, whether it be the Cla.s.sic Beef Wellington (see Chapter 4), Mrs. Patmore's Dropped Roasted Chicken (see Chapter 5), or any of the dishes enjoyed by the servants (see Part 2).
Chapter 7.
THE FINIs.h.i.+NG TOUCH: SWEETS AND DESSERTS.
Nowadays, dessert brings connotations of decadent chocolate cakes, opulent ice-cream sundaes, and tangy tarts. But during the era of Downton Abbey, what we would consider dessert was most commonly called ”pudding” or ”afters.” In fact, in England the ”afters” would not be called ”dessert” by the upper-middle and upper cla.s.ses unless fruit was involved. Yet nothing unites the cla.s.ses like a love for sugar - unless you sprinkle salt all over the Raspberry Meringue Pie like poor blind Mrs. Patmore! The dishes in this chapter, from Sir Anthony's beloved Apple Charlotte to the Vanilla Wafers with Double Chocolate Ice Cream to the ever-impressive Grand Gougere, will be admired and enjoyed by all, regardless of s.e.x or salary.
Grand Gougere
A French and, according to Edwardian society thus fancy, dessert, this is a savory choux pastry (also known as French cheese puff) filled with upscale cheeses such as Gruyere or Comte that is an aristocratic response to more plebian puff pastries such as Yorks.h.i.+re Pudding (see Chapter 10). The Countess of Grantham would gladly offer this pastry at any c.o.c.ktail or garden party.
ABOUT 30 GOUGeRES (FRENCH CHEESE PUFFS).
34 cup whole milk 1 stick unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into tablespoons 1 pinch white sugar 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 cup all-purpose flour 4 large eggs 34 cup grated Gruyere cheese, plus some for topping 14 cup grated Parmesan-Reggiano cheese 1 pinch white pepper 1 pinch nutmeg Preheat oven to 400F. Line two large baking sheets with parchment paper.
Combine milk, b.u.t.ter, sugar, and salt in a medium-sized saucepan. Bring mixture to a boil, then add flour. Stir with a wooden spoon until dough forms, then lower heat and stir dough until it dries and pulls away from the pan, about 35 minutes.
Sc.r.a.pe dough into a medium-sized bowl and allow it to cool for 2 minutes. Beat eggs into dough one at a time, being careful to beat thoroughly between each addition. Add cheeses, a pinch of white pepper, and a pinch of nutmeg.
Transfer dough to a pastry bag with a 12-inch round tip and pipe tablespoon-sized mounds onto the baking sheet. Keep mounds at least 2 inches apart. Sprinkle with extra Gruyere and bake for 25 minutes or until puffy and golden brown. Serve hot.
Times Gone By While this dish might appear perfect for a tea party - it is, after all, a finger food - savory dishes were considered improper for a tea, where the food is required to be sweet unless it's a sandwich.