Part 6 (1/2)

[Ill.u.s.tration: NO. 79]

We all sub-consciously acknowledge our dependence upon b.u.t.tons, but not many of us, evidently, have observed that even b.u.t.tons have a certain possibility of caricature in them; and that they may add to, or detract from, the appearance of manly forms. The consideration of properly placed b.u.t.tons may seem trivial to you, but if you will observe sketches Nos. 79 and 80, you may discern that a thin man may apparently increase his breadth and add a certain manly touch to his figure, by changing the b.u.t.tons at the waist-line of his coat. The b.u.t.tons placed so near together, in No. 79, really make his toothpick proportions too obvious.

His back is made to look broader by placing the b.u.t.tons wider apart, as shown in No. 80, and changing the cut of his coat-tail.

[Ill.u.s.tration: NO. 80]

That the fat man may also present a more attractive back to his enemies by considering the placing of his b.u.t.tons, may be seen in drawings Nos.

81 and 82. The b.u.t.tons decorating No. 81 are placed so far apart that they increase in an ungainly way the breadth of the back at the waist-line. If they are placed nearer together, and the seams graduated to meet them, they give the illusion of better and more desirable proportions, as may be seen in No. 82.

[Ill.u.s.tration: NO. 81]

[Ill.u.s.tration: NO. 82]

That the thin man may also present a more imposing and broader front to the world, is suggested in sketches Nos. 83 and 84. The contracted look of the coat in No. 83 is somewhat due to the b.u.t.tons of his double-breasted coat being placed too closely together. The slender man who wishes to give the impression of being broad-chested may have the b.u.t.tons on his coat placed a little farther apart than fas.h.i.+on may allow, as shown in sketch 84. The proportions may be easily preserved by a careful adjustment of the shoulder-seams and the seams under the arms.

[Ill.u.s.tration: NO. 83]

[Ill.u.s.tration: NO. 84]

[Ill.u.s.tration: NO. 85]

The waist-line is not so much ”a danger line” to man as to woman, yet man should not wholly ignore his equator. If he is long-waisted he can apparently balance his proportions by having his skirt shortened, as in No. 85, and his waist-line raised the merest bit. If he is too short-waisted he can lengthen his skirt and lower his waist-line, as shown in No. 86. In the one he escapes appearing too long and lanky in body, and in the other he obscures a lack of becoming inches that tends to give him a dumpy appearance.

[Ill.u.s.tration: NO. 86]

If you study your fellow-men you will observe that few are really perfectly proportioned. One man will have the body of a viking on the legs of a dwarf, or one will have the legs of an Apollo supporting the short body of a pigmy. The man who has a kingly body, too broad in proportion to his legs, as shown in sketch No. 87, should endeavor to modify his physical defect by the careful selection of his coats. He should have his coats cut to give him as much length of leg as possible.

A skilful tailor will know just what subtle changes and adjustments to make. The improvement in appearance and gain in height is pictured in sketch 88. The coat being shorter and the waist of the trousers being raised a trifle, the man's limbs seem longer, which is an improvement.

Long lines tend to give elegance and grace in bearing. Another thing for the too robust type of man to consider is the style of his trousers. No.

87 hints what he must not choose. Such brazen plaids only make him appear offensively aggressive in size. Long, fine lines, such as shown in No. 88, give an impression of length and apparently lessen the width.

[Ill.u.s.tration: NO. 87]

Too long lines, however, are almost as undesirable as too short ones.